And finally there is the “Mark,” which tells the grill operator what the actual combination is. They then yell “Drop,” which indicates how many hash browns to drop on the grill (e.g., “Drop three hash browns, two in the ring!”). “Pull” means to pull whatever meat they indicate from the fridge (e.g., “Pull two sirloins, one bacon”). Half of the hash browns spill across the grill, leaving me with a bird’s nest of both underdone and overcooked shreds. Now I can flip pancakes at home on a Sunday morning, but when I’m doing it for an audience, it’s easy to flub. After a minute or so (I always ask for my hash browns well-done, and you should too), you add the toppings and flip. Making an order sounds simple enough: Pour one ladle of liquid vegetable shortening (literally the grease that keeps the gears at the Waffle House spinning) on the grill and top with a scoop of potatoes. Soak the potatoes in water for two hours and you have rehydrated ready-to-cook sticks. The hash browns are shipped to the restaurants in supersize milk cartons. Brave souls can get them “all the way,” which is exactly that. The iconic menu item is offered many ways: scattered (as opposed to the standard order, cooked in a steel ring), smothered (onions), covered (cheese), chunked (ham), diced (tomatoes), peppered (jalapeño), capped (mushrooms), topped (chili), or country (sausage gravy). Brandon asks if I’m ready to handle a couple of orders.
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